My first visit to Bangkok was in late November 2006. I had just handed in my Master’s degree thesis together with the list of bibliographical references I would then use to compile it, so I took a month off to explore Thailand.
Over the years I would’ve stopped over in Bangkok many times, on my way to Hong Kong and Macao where I used to go for work every now and then but I had never gone back, until late November 2025, a solid 19 years later.
To my surprise, the flyover train had been finished, back in 2006 we took a 3.5 hours taxi from Suvarnabhumi to central Bangkok (can’t remember where we stayed). So I was very pleased with the 25-30 minutes trip that took me to Phaya Thai Station.
Let’s cut to the chase:
WHERE TO STAY
Villa Bangkok - book here (Expedia) or here (Agoda)
I’ve picked this hotel as I definitely wanted a pool, big or small didn’t matter but I remembered how hot and humid BKK can become and so I wanted the option to jump in the water after walking around temples all day.
The hotel is super pretty, the coffee shop next to reception makes a wonderful brew and staff are super nice. The position is super central, very close to Khaosan Road but with enough distance to not notice it. I particularly loved the area around the canals with food stalls and a daily market offering anything you can imagine.
There’s a 7Eleven at the corner between Phra Sumen Rd and Saphan Wan Chat bridge, and just outside you’ll find different varieties of street food both at day and night. Sometimes is the coconut custard balls lady, sometimes it’s pancakes, sometimes it’s pad thai or some other delicacy, all I know is that sometimes we would go out at night just to see what was cooking!
Pat Café BoRaan is right at the corner between Dinso Road and Phra Sumen Rd, this coffee shop serves amazing coffee and fantastic food too!
Another option nearby (where my friends stayed) is:
Priya Boutique House - book here (Expedia) or here (Agoda)
Truly beautiful hotel, recently renovated, a true gem in the heart of old Bangkok. Both properties are about 1km from War Saket, 2km from the Grand Palace and close to the Bangkok National Museum, and Khao San Road is 10 minutes away.
Other hotels in the area
Lamphu Tree House Boutique Hotel - book here (Expedia) or here (Agoda)
Bangkok Canale Home - book here (Expedia) or here (Agoda)
Lilit Bang Lumphu Hotel - book here (Expedia) or here (Agoda)
WHERE TO EAT
Now, I love Asia in general and Thailand even more because of the street food tradition. These guys just head outside with their gear and start cooking, I absolutely love stop and buy stuff from street vendors, they all remind me of my grandma, bent over cooking amazing dishes in NO space, with rudimentary tools, just there, on a cart on the pavement.
So yeah, MY tip is to stop and try, also that’s where you can still get a meal for 60-80 Baht (not even £2).
Special mentions however to:
Local Thai Shophouse Food (I guess) aka The Old Lady at 10 Tha Thian Aly, maps link here - we went twice in 4 days, just SO good (some dishes are 50 Baht)
here’s the sign outside
the Tom Yum
and the lady, the chef, the myth!
At number 16, just down the road you have:
Manee Thai Food - similar story, family run restaurant, not as exciting but still good.
also a very popular spot:
Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu on Dinso Rd - this one is a Bib Gourmand restaurant, recommend by the Michelin Guide (here), coincidentally next block down from our hotel so we tried it. Smashing Pad Thai, venue full of Anime references, pretty cool, in fact VERY cool, the aircon was killing us and made the experience a bit worse for that and we left quite quickly after the Pad Thai (see pic I think I got the Pad Thai Kode Moo Yang).
WHERE TO DRINK
Again, you’re in Bangkok, anything works, we were also staying near Khaosan Road and I have to say I found it way better than it was 20 years ago, it’s been cleaned up, the venues are decent and you can safely walk up and down the strip. We stopped in a few bars here and there, some with live music, all good I guess.
Special mentions however to my new discovery (and new favourite bar in Bangkok):
Adhere The 13th Blues Bar (13 Sam Sen Rd, Wat Sam Phraya)- I mean, I live at the blues bar in London (shoutout to Ain’t Nothing But) so finding a Blues Bar, half way between my hotel and Khaosan was pure bliss, we caught some really cool local bands and spent 2 nights out of the 4 in this place.
and also:
TYME Rooftop - (5th Floor, INN A DAY, Maharaj - Tha Tien) - great selection of gins and a view of War Arun second to none. I don’t even add a picture, you gotta go!
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